Pruning methods of apricot trees at different ages

1. Apricot pruning technology at the sapling stage: The sapling stage is the period when the trees are mainly grown after planting. The task of pruning in this period is mainly to repair.

1. Sapling and pruning apricot has a strong stem, and it is advisable to adopt a natural open tree shape with multiple main branches. The stem is 40-50 cm high, and there are three adjacent main branches at the base. 4-6 secondary main branches are formed according to the bifurcated branches. Each main branch cultivates 2 fixed outer branches. When completing the basic tree shape, keep a distance of about 100 cm between the backbone branches. This tree-shaped side branch has a long life, strong branch group, quick forming, and high space utilization.

2. When shaping, cut the extension branches of the main side branches every year, and the cutting amount should be determined according to the variety, the strength of the branch, the length of the branch and the growth potential. Under normal circumstances, lightly cut strong branches and heavy cuts on weak branches. It is advisable to cut 1/3 to 2/5 of the original branches. Over-dense branches and long branches should be thinned out as soon as possible. But pay attention: young trees should avoid heavy pruning and keep more twigs to accelerate the formation and early fruiting.

3. Short cut to increase branches and expand the crown. The extension branches of the short main side branches shall be cut from the full buds. The cutting amount shall be determined according to the variety, the strength of the branch, the length of the branch and the growth vigor. Under normal circumstances, light cut for strong branches and heavy cut for weak branches. It is advisable to cut about 1/3 of the branches. For some non-spine branches that interfere with the growth of the backbone branches, if there is no future use, they should be removed as soon as possible. Any branch that can make up for the vacancy in a suitable position should be slowly or lightly short cut to promote branching and cultivate into fruiting branches.

4. Strengthen summer shears and promote forming. Summer cut is an effective measure to expand the crown of the tree to promote the formation and flower formation. Adjust the main branches and auxiliary branches that do not open at an angle and whose orientation is not correct by pulling, pressing, and dropping branches. The branches drawn from the back should be wiped and twisted in time to weaken the growth potential and transform them into fruiting branches. Topping during the growth of new shoots can increase branches and facilitate formation.

2. Pruning at the beginning of the fruit

1. Results of the initial tree characteristics. Apricot trees generally bloom and bear fruit within 3 years after planting, and it will take another 2 years to reach a single commercial yield. During this period, the young trees that have undergone plastic pruning still maintain a strong growth potential. The irregular growth characteristics of apricot branches are still very obvious. Generally speaking, vegetative growth is greater than reproductive growth.

2. When the fertility and water conditions are good and the tree is growing vigorously, the short cut should not be too heavy during pruning, otherwise it will stimulate the buds to sprout near the cutting mouth, inhibit the germination of the lower buds, and even cause premature decay of the base branchlets. Pruning of extension and development branches. It can be flexibly mastered according to the principle of cutting strong branches less and cutting weak branches more. Generally, it is appropriate to cut off 1/3 to 1/4 of the new shoots of the year. After the vegetative branches and extended branches are appropriately short cut, strong new shoots can be formed at the top and fruiting branches can be formed at the bottom. If the short cut is too light, although more fruit branches can be formed, the growth of new shoots from the top is weak, which will easily make the vegetative growth and reproductive growth out of balance, which will weaken the growth of the tree and shorten the fruiting life.

3. Pruning purpose. One is to maintain the necessary tree shape, the other is to continuously expand the canopy, and the third is to cultivate as many fruiting branches as possible.

4. Pruning measures. (1) Cut off the main and side branches at all levels, leaving full outer buds, and let them continue to extend outward to obtain long branches not less than 50cm. (2) Remove the upright competing branches, dense branches and cross branches in the chamber that affect the light on the backbone branches. (3) Short-cut part of non-spine branches and moderately long sexual branches, the growth-promoting branches become the fruiting branch group. (4) For the more vigorous, long branches that sprout inside the canopy, the direction and position are appropriate, and they should be released slowly. (5). The fruiting branch group on the back of the main branch or the side branch has a longer effective fruit life, but if it is allowed to grow naturally, it is easy to form a tree on the tree, disturb the tree shape, and compete with the backbone branches, such as pruning and changing Its extension direction, that is, changing from upright to oblique, can slow down the growth, not compete with the backbone branches, and can be used for long-term results. (6). For the elongated branches that germinate from the inside of the canopy, grow vigorously, and have a suitable growing position, they can be topped in time and used slowly. When pruning the main and side branches at all levels, you should choose to leave full outer buds to continue to extend outward and expand the crown.

3. Pruning during the full fruit period

1. Tree characteristics in full fruit period. Entering the fruit-bearing period, the crown of the tree has been shaped and the nutrient production gradually eased. In the early stage of the fruit-bearing stage, the tree body produces a lot of fruit, the growth of the branches is significantly reduced, and the reproductive growth is greater than the vegetative growth; in the middle and late stages, the fruiting parts move out, the branches under the crown begin to be bare, and the fruit yield decreases, which is easy to form periodic results .

2. Main measures. In the full fruit period, on the basis of strengthening fertilizer and water management, reasonable pruning should be used to maintain a relatively vigorous tree vigor, adjust the relationship between the results and growth, extend the full fruit period, and achieve high and stable yields.

Pay attention to the following items when pruning in the full fruit period:

(1) In order to continuously increase new branches and obtain stable yield, the main branches, lateral extension branches and other backbone branches must be short-cut, and the cutting amount should be controlled at 1/3-1/2 of the original branch.

(2) Thin the very weak short fruit branches and dead branches in the middle and lower part of the crown, leaving strong branches; the remaining long fruit branches must also be appropriately shortened.

(3) Remove the dense branches, cross branches, and overlapping branches in the middle and upper part of the crown to increase the light in the chamber.

(4) Update part of the result branch group. For branch groups that have been fruitful for several years and exhibit extremely weakened branches, they can be retracted to the base of extended branches or branch positions of perennial branches to promote vigorous growth of base branches and form new fruiting branch groups.

(5) In the late stage of fruiting, due to the heavy pressure of the fruit, the main branch often spreads or droops at an excessive angle, and erect and long branches germinate on the back of the main branch. According to the strength of growth, when the branches grow to 40cm～50cm, they should be topped in summer to form branches in the same year; or cut short during winter pruning and cultivated into a fruiting branch group. The drooping branches that occur at the periphery of the canopy can generally retract until the growth of new branches is small, and some are only 3-5cm. The amount of dead branches in the middle and lower parts of the canopy increases, the branches are thin, the flower buds are thin, the proportion of degraded flowers is large, and the flower and fruit drop is serious. The fruit is small and of poor quality. The main task of pruning during senescence is to rejuvenate, renew and re-cultivate the fruiting branch group, so it is also called rejuvenation pruning. The operation of rejuvenation and pruning is divided into two steps.

4. Pruning during senescence

1. Tree characteristics during senescence. After the tree ages, most of the growth and flowering of its branches and leaves are on the top and periphery of the canopy. The growth of new branches is very small, and the amount of dead branches in the middle and lower parts of the canopy is increased, the branches are thin, the flower buds are thin, the flower and fruit drop is serious, the fruit is small and the quality is poor. .

2. Main measures. The main task of pruning during senescence is to rejuvenate, renew and re-cultivation of the fruiting branch group.

Rejuvenation and pruning are mainly retraction, and the degree of retraction should be determined according to factors such as tree age, tree vigor, and management level. Rejuvenation and pruning should be carried out gradually, generally in 2 to 3 years. First remove all the redundant, irrational, diseased and damaged branches in the canopy to restore the tree's vigor, and then shrink the weak perennial branches, once shrinking to 3 to 4 years old branches. Even the base of the branches of 5 to 6 years old. Retraction should be carried out in early spring to facilitate wound healing and the germination of latent buds.

The new shoots that sprouted after retraction should be pruned specifically, and the fruiting shoot group should be re-cultured. In this way, after 2 to 3 years, production of economic value can be restored.

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