Big cherry has high germination rate, weak branching ability, and standing upright in the tree. If the management is not properly done, stems and branches are not shared, and the top and peripheral shoots grow in droves. The phenomenon of “light legs†is serious, resulting in emptiness inside the crown, resulting in fewer branches. The result is postponed. The following technical measures can be solved.
First, pull (take) open branch angle open branch open angle can promote the sprouting of the rear branch buds, and can promote the development of a small amount of sprigs and leaf twigs, promote early flowering, early results. Branching time can be performed from the entire growth period after germination. When the new shooter grows to 50-60 centimeters from the middle of May, he will begin to soften, flatten his hands, and ease his growth potential. The main focus is to widen the branching angle until mid-August to mid-September. When the growing branch grows to 80-100 cm, it is fixed with a rope and the branch is drawn to 70-90 degrees. For the ever-growing perennial branches, before and after sprouting, use the “three-saw method†to saw the diameter of the branches from 3 to 5 centimeters below the base of the main branch, and the deepest point should not exceed 1/3 of the branch diameter. Saw the saw blade until it reaches the desired base angle. To grow too thick Wang branches can be saw 5 to 6 saws. Followed by wedges on the ground, with a rope to grab the 1/3 to 1/2 of the big branch, with cardboard, etc., padding the rope at the point of focus, to prevent damage to the skin, resulting in flow of glue, and then fixed. Throughout the growing season, according to the growth potential of branches, at any time to move the position of the rope on the branches, coordinate the angle relationship between the base angle, waist angle, tip angle, balance the tree potential, and promote flowering.
Second, stem budding sticks carved bud is an effective way to solve the problem of big cherry bald. The sprouting is divided into the main trunk and the main branch. In the middle of the trunk, the buds are carved and the budding is early, usually about 10 days before sprouting. When squaring, a hacksaw is used to pull a piece 1cm above the bud, deep to the xylem and heavier than the apple tree, the length is 1/2 of the dry period; in the back of the main branch, the bald zone is scalloped, and the time is budding. Green is appropriate, the depth is slightly shallower than the trunk, and the length is 1/3 of the circumference of the mother branch. The buds on both sides are carved, and a bud is carved every 10 to 15 centimeters. The positions of the buds on both sides are staggered and the back buds are offset. Remove. Regardless of whether the main branch and the main branch are sprouted, the competing branches on the head or outer tip must be removed and one of them should be used as an extension branch. The other branches are removed or shorted to promote the sprouting and branching of the lower or posterior buds. After cutting, not only new shoots can be promoted, but also the average length of new shoots and the number of leaves are significantly higher than those of non-cutting shoots.
Third, a reasonable short cut in the dormant period, the beginning of budding, the main stem, the main branch of the extension of more than 60 cm, and the middle and back bare branches, can be used to promote short-branch branches. Cut 20 to 30 centimeters from one-year old branches and cut 3 to 5 medium and long branches. In order to reduce the growth site of the branch, after the central dry extension head is short-cut, in addition to leaving a terminal bud, the bud in the lower part of the 3 to 5 cm can be directly erased to promote the growth of the lower bud.
Fourth, timely picking
In early May, when the new tip sent out after a short cut to 30 centimeters in length, it must be timely and carefully controlled. Otherwise, it could easily lead to external control. In addition to extending the head of other new shoots up to 30 centimeters in length, 10 to 15 centimeters are removed, 3 to 4 leaf weights are left to pick up on the new shoots, and the length of the new shoots can be lengthened to 40 to 50. Pick up when centimeters. The new shoots emitted from other parts can play a role in promoting branching, depending on the size, orientation and growth potential of the shoots. Throughout the growing season, picking up the heart several times in a row will make the branches on the trunk and the main branch more uniform and reasonable, and the trees will be full and there will be no baldness phenomenon.
First, pull (take) open branch angle open branch open angle can promote the sprouting of the rear branch buds, and can promote the development of a small amount of sprigs and leaf twigs, promote early flowering, early results. Branching time can be performed from the entire growth period after germination. When the new shooter grows to 50-60 centimeters from the middle of May, he will begin to soften, flatten his hands, and ease his growth potential. The main focus is to widen the branching angle until mid-August to mid-September. When the growing branch grows to 80-100 cm, it is fixed with a rope and the branch is drawn to 70-90 degrees. For the ever-growing perennial branches, before and after sprouting, use the “three-saw method†to saw the diameter of the branches from 3 to 5 centimeters below the base of the main branch, and the deepest point should not exceed 1/3 of the branch diameter. Saw the saw blade until it reaches the desired base angle. To grow too thick Wang branches can be saw 5 to 6 saws. Followed by wedges on the ground, with a rope to grab the 1/3 to 1/2 of the big branch, with cardboard, etc., padding the rope at the point of focus, to prevent damage to the skin, resulting in flow of glue, and then fixed. Throughout the growing season, according to the growth potential of branches, at any time to move the position of the rope on the branches, coordinate the angle relationship between the base angle, waist angle, tip angle, balance the tree potential, and promote flowering.
Second, stem budding sticks carved bud is an effective way to solve the problem of big cherry bald. The sprouting is divided into the main trunk and the main branch. In the middle of the trunk, the buds are carved and the budding is early, usually about 10 days before sprouting. When squaring, a hacksaw is used to pull a piece 1cm above the bud, deep to the xylem and heavier than the apple tree, the length is 1/2 of the dry period; in the back of the main branch, the bald zone is scalloped, and the time is budding. Green is appropriate, the depth is slightly shallower than the trunk, and the length is 1/3 of the circumference of the mother branch. The buds on both sides are carved, and a bud is carved every 10 to 15 centimeters. The positions of the buds on both sides are staggered and the back buds are offset. Remove. Regardless of whether the main branch and the main branch are sprouted, the competing branches on the head or outer tip must be removed and one of them should be used as an extension branch. The other branches are removed or shorted to promote the sprouting and branching of the lower or posterior buds. After cutting, not only new shoots can be promoted, but also the average length of new shoots and the number of leaves are significantly higher than those of non-cutting shoots.
Third, a reasonable short cut in the dormant period, the beginning of budding, the main stem, the main branch of the extension of more than 60 cm, and the middle and back bare branches, can be used to promote short-branch branches. Cut 20 to 30 centimeters from one-year old branches and cut 3 to 5 medium and long branches. In order to reduce the growth site of the branch, after the central dry extension head is short-cut, in addition to leaving a terminal bud, the bud in the lower part of the 3 to 5 cm can be directly erased to promote the growth of the lower bud.
Fourth, timely picking
In early May, when the new tip sent out after a short cut to 30 centimeters in length, it must be timely and carefully controlled. Otherwise, it could easily lead to external control. In addition to extending the head of other new shoots up to 30 centimeters in length, 10 to 15 centimeters are removed, 3 to 4 leaf weights are left to pick up on the new shoots, and the length of the new shoots can be lengthened to 40 to 50. Pick up when centimeters. The new shoots emitted from other parts can play a role in promoting branching, depending on the size, orientation and growth potential of the shoots. Throughout the growing season, picking up the heart several times in a row will make the branches on the trunk and the main branch more uniform and reasonable, and the trees will be full and there will be no baldness phenomenon.
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