Peony is a perennial plant with fleshy roots, and it thrives best in loose, fertile, and deep sandy loam soil. If the existing soil is not of good quality, it should be improved before planting. Choose elevated areas with good drainage to avoid waterlogging, as peonies do not tolerate standing water. The ideal soil pH is neutral. Before planting, trim the roots carefully, removing any damaged or broken parts. Soak the cut ends in a 0.1% copper sulfate solution or 5% lime water for about 30 minutes to disinfect them, then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
The planting depth should match the level of the soil surface at the rhizome junction. In the Yellow River Basin, late August to early October is the optimal time for planting. Planting too early may cause the plants to "fall" (die), resulting in no flowers the following year. If planted too late, the wounds may heal slowly, leading to poor survival rates. Even if they survive, the growth will be weak, and it may take one or two years for them to recover fully.
Although peonies are drought-tolerant, they still require watering during dry periods in spring and autumn, but care must be taken not to overwater. During heavy summer rains, proper drainage is essential to prevent waterlogging.
Peonies are dormant plants, and to ensure vibrant blooms and avoid the "flowering every other year" issue, proper fertilization is crucial. Apply fertilizer at least three times a year. The first application is "pre-flowering fertilizer," which should be done in mid- to late February along with the first watering of the season. The second is "post-flowering fertilizer," applied in early May. If using cake fertilizer, make sure it is fully decomposed. Alternatively, use compound fertilizer, applying it away from the main roots. A top dressing of 0.2–0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can also be used. The third application is in late autumn, just before winter.
Pruning is an essential part of peony care. It involves shaping, removing buds, and managing branches. After 2–3 years of growth, you can begin pruning. Determine how many branches to keep based on the plant's strength. For weaker varieties, remove thin and weak branches, keeping only strong ones. Stronger varieties can have 3–5 branches kept. For particularly vigorous types, consider training them into a tree-like form. Pruning should be done in autumn and winter, and it should be done gradually rather than all at once. Many adventitious buds form around the rhizome and should be removed regularly to prevent competition for nutrients. Regular removal of excess branches, inward-growing branches, crossing branches, and overlapping branches helps maintain healthy growth and abundant flowering.
For potted peonies, choose early to mid-season blooming varieties that are adaptable and have good flower forms. Use grafted peony rootstocks that are 2–3 years old with 2–3 small branches. When planting, cut back the roots or leave only a few short branches. Start with smaller pots and upgrade as the plant grows. Use loose, well-draining, neutral soil. Plant in late September to avoid "falling off." Pruning and shaping are similar to those done for field-grown peonies. In colder regions, protect potted peonies by placing them in a "flower pond" filled with sawdust or burying them in the ground, wrapping the above-ground parts with straw or multi-layer paper bags.
Peonies are ideal for forcing to bloom during festivals like New Year’s Day or the Spring Festival. To bloom around the Spring Festival, select 4–5-year-old varieties, pot them 35–60 days in advance, and gradually increase the temperature in a greenhouse to 20–25°C during the day (ventilate if higher) and 10–15°C at night. Increase humidity through misting and watering, and apply diluted fertilizer every 7–10 days. A foliar spray of 0.2–0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can also help. If buds don’t open, apply 300–500 ppm gibberellin to the buds. After 40–60 days, the peonies will bloom on the eve of the festival. If blooming is too early, store the pots in a cool place (5–15°C).
Reproduction methods include division, grafting, cuttings, and sowing. Division is the most common method, best done in late September to early October. Dig up the plant after 4–5 years, let the roots soften in a cool place, and separate the sections by hand or knife before replanting.
Grafting involves using peony roots as rootstocks and grafting new shoots from mature plants. This should be done in late September to early October for better survival.
Cutting is less common in northern regions. Select short shoots from the rhizome, treat with rooting hormone, and plant them 1/3 to 1/2 deep. Keep the soil moist and shaded, and transplant in the following September.
Sowing requires patience, as peony seeds have a dormancy period. Sow immediately after harvest in August, allowing them to germinate the next spring. If delayed, they may take up to three years. Stratification with wet sand can speed up germination.
Pest control is important. Common diseases include leaf spot, anthracnose, purple feather disease, and root-knot nematodes. Insects such as longhorn beetles and scale insects can also damage the plant. Regular spraying of Bordeaux mixture or sulfur gel suspension can help control leaf spots. Remove and burn infected leaves after flowering. For purple feather disease, disinfect roots before planting and avoid poorly drained areas. Root-knot nematodes can be controlled with chloropicrin soil treatment. Insect pests can be managed with insecticides like dimethoate or omethoate.
Sweet And Spicy Flavor Kimchi,Fermented Pickled Vegetables,Korean Green Chili Kimchi,Spicy Cabbage Kimchi
Yanbian Jingangshan Food Co., Ltd , https://www.ybjgsfood.com